Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy

Shrine and Basilica of Our Lady of Bonaria

When Alfonso of Aragon arrived at the shores of Sardinia in 1323, it became clear that taking Cagliari at first attempt would not be possible. He then set up camp on a hill, which was named “Bonaria” (“good air” in Italian). The siege lasted three years; during that time, the camp grew into a fortress with its own church, and later-into a monastery. For centuries, the monks of the Bonaria monastery were renowned for ransoming Christian slaves from Muslim pirates. But this hill has become a true place of international pilgrimage thanks to a simple wooden statue of the Virgin Mary and Christ, which is kept in the church in a niche behind the altar. According to legend, in the 14th century the statue saved Spanish sailors who had been shipwrecked, and since then it has been asked for protection at sea.

Cagliari Amphitheatre

An ancient Roman theatre with an arena for gladiator fights, horse races, and hunting down enraged wild beasts, carved directly into the rock, has adorned Sardinia’s capital for almost 20 centuries. The famous destroyer called Time has scarcely affected either its majestic beauty (only the marble that covered the staircases is gone, and among the stone tribunes, a seating area of blue plastic chairs has appeared) or the impressive size of the amphitheatre (its area is over 6000 sq m, and it can accommodate more than 10,000 people), or its wonderful acoustics. Therefore, besides its museum function, this ancient structure still serves a cultural purpose: concerts, festivals, and open-air performances are held here on a regular basis.

Torre del Elefante Tower

One of two towers from the period of Pisan rule over Cagliari that have survived to this day, the Torre del Elefante (that is, literally, “Elephant Tower”) was built in 1307 as part of defensive fortifications against the military threat posed by the Genoese and the Moors. Named for the sculptures on the portico, this 42-meter-high tower became a true embodiment of terror for the city’s residents: the Spaniards, decapitating Marquis Sea, left his severed head here for 17 years, from time to time “decorating” the porticos with garlands of cages containing the heads of other executed prisoners. Despite its dreadful history, the tower is considered one of the best viewpoints in Cagliari.

Cathedral of the Holy Name

Four centuries of building the Cathedral of Saint Mary in Cagliari were not in vain: the temple turned out beautiful and sturdy. It has been wonderfully preserved to this day and still delights the eye with its ancient wall paintings, elegant columns, painted ceilings and golden candlesticks, as well as with picture and sculpture masterpieces of Romanesque and Flemish art. The cathedral has excellent acoustics: every Saturday at 20.30 concerts of classical and religious music are held here. The temple is located in the upper district of Cagliari - Castello, in Palace Square.

St. Michael’s Church

At first, the church was part of a monastery complex, and in the 18th century its interior decoration was enriched with Jesuit traditions-so generously that today it is considered the finest example of Rococo style throughout all of Sardinia. The spectacle begins with a triple-arched Baroque façade, continues with the atrium’s columns, and culminates in a luxurious interior. Before stepping inside the building, it’s worth lingering in the atrium to admire the massive pulpit supported by four columns. The octagonal interior space, with six richly decorated chapels, is crowned by a magnificent dome adorned with vivid frescoes. The sacristy in the last chapel on the left deserves special mention-it features intriguing paintings and intricate wooden inlay.

Poetto Beach

It’s not exactly known why this beach of Sardinia’s capital is called Poetto-perhaps because of the Torre del Poeta tower rising on the neighboring rock with an equally mysterious name, “Devil’s Saddle,” or maybe from the Catalan word pohuet-“good”-or for some other reason, but the fact remains: it really is wonderful and very poetic. A 6-kilometer stretch of snow-white, soft sand, with a gentle slope into the water (about 50 meters of shallow water)-ideal conditions for swimming for kids and for those who can’t, don’t know how, or simply don’t want to learn to swim. With its infrastructure, Poetto is also in perfect order: changing rooms, toilets, bars, trattorias, takeaway pizza, discos, and even open-air cinema. Plus, an excellent yacht club and various sea equipment available for rent.

Aqua Park Diverland

This isn’t just a water park-it’s a real entertainment city with its own three-star hotel featuring 22 rooms, bars, fitness clubs, shops, children’s play areas, discos, and restaurants with live music. One of Sardinia’s newest water parks covers a huge area-100,000 sq.m., of which 7,000 sq.m. belong directly to the crazy water slides and serpentine rides: extreme attractions-the 50-meter Kamikaze, where you pop out like a cork from colorful tubes; the Big Jump-free fall from a height of 55 meters; and the long Rio Rapido slide twisted into knots.

Excursion train Trenino Cagliaritano

A trip along Cagliari’s narrow cobbled streets on this small sightseeing train takes about 45 minutes. Starting from Piazza del Carmine, the Trenino Cagliaritano route passes by the medieval Torre dell’Elefante and Saint Pancrazio, the Jewish ghetto, the Cathedral, the Amphitheatre, the San Remi Bastion, and from time to time gives passengers a chance to enjoy scenic views of the harbor and the surrounding bay, and ends near the Town Hall.

Su Nuraxi

This most important monument of antiquity in Sardinia dates back to approximately the 12th-13th centuries BC. The methods and purpose of constructing the island’s enormous megalithic structures in the form of truncated cones are still unknown. Some believe they were defensive towers, others think they were the dwellings of leaders, and still others view them as ancient temples. The nuraghi at Barumini stand on a small plateau 230 meters above sea level. The complex is very similar to a fortress city. You can go inside, take a look within the structures, and wander through narrow tunnel passageways. The Su-Nuraxi complex can be visited only accompanied by a guide. Tours start every half hour.

Archaeological Museum

The main museum of Cagliari is located in the upper district of Castello, on Piazza Arsenale. All exhibits are arranged in chronological order and occupy 3 floors. At the very bottom are the oldest finds made in Sardinia: from 6000 BC to the 8th century AD-stone sculptures of gods, the first ornaments and weapons. On the second floor-the richest collection of bronze statuettes depicting the life and everyday life of ancient tribes: hunting, war, trade, and religious rituals. The exhibition is completed by treasures of Roman civilization-costly offerings to the emperor, black ceramics, the first glass, and multicolored ornaments made from it, as well as gold and gemstones.

Antico Cafe

Since 1855, this charming café in Cagliari has been welcoming local celebrities and creative intellectuals to its tables. Great stars of the era, such as poet and Nobel Prize laureate Salvatore Quasimodo, the great tenor Beniamino Gigli, writer Sibilla Aleramo, and the author of Lady Chatterley’s Lover, the British novelist D. H. Lawrence, have all sat here. Since then, not much has changed-at least as far as the interior is concerned; even the paintings remain, including works gifted to the owners by regular artist patrons. The cuisine here is Mediterranean, the desserts are excellent-especially tiramisu and their own homemade gelato-and in the evenings, candles are lit in the café and live music fills the air. Antico Caffè is located right on the city’s main square, Piazza Costituzione, just a step away from the San Remy bastion.

Cagliari sightseeing tour

From the viewpoints located in the medieval district of Castello, wonderful views of the city and the bay will unfold before you. You will see the fortress walls and the San Pancrazio and Elephant towers, built by the Pisans in the 14th century, the Cathedral of Saint Mary, famous for its unique marble pulpit from the 13th century, the Santa Croce and San Remy bastions. There is also a little museum town here: the National Pinacoteca and the National Archaeological Museum of Cagliari. The tour will end with a stroll along Cagliari’s main shopping streets: Via Manno, Largo Carlo Felice, Via Roma, where you’ll be able to visit souvenir shops and enjoy delicious, simple and natural dishes of the local cuisine, along with splendid wines from famous winemakers.

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